WHEN TO PLANT
Carrot seeds can be sown outdoors 3 weeks before the last expected frost; and when ground temperatures remain at least 45F during the day. A severe frost can damage young carrots.
Germination of carrots is slow, often taking a month when planted early in cooler temperatures.
In subtropical regions, plant carrots in fall or winter.
Soil temperatures of 75-80F during the day are optimal and can be achieved in cooler temperatures by using row covers over the bed to keep warm.
Carrots take 70-80 days to mature.
Plant a fast-maturing variety early for a summer crop; plant a second crop 2-3 months before the last expected frost date for your winter crop.
WHERE TO PLANT
Carrots produce best in full sun, but can tolerate light shade.
Plant in soil that is mostly rock-free for best results.
PREPARING THE SOIL
Carrots are capable of a very deep root system (up to 3 feet deep).
Loosen the soil in your carrot bed 10-12″ down; remove larger rocks and break up clumpy soil. Once the soil loosens, you can add 12-18″ of loose soil on top to form a raised bed if desired.
Mixing in fully composted material will help loosen the soil, but avoid using fresh manure as the high nitrogen levels will produce long, bad-tasting carrots.
Test the pH level in your soil; Carrots require a pH between 6.0 and 6.5.
SEEDS AND GERMINATION
Carrots are difficult to space evenly and easy to overplant. The best way to sow carrot seeds is to spread them out between your thumb and forefinger.
Sow about 5-6 seeds per inch. Cover your seeds with a minimum of ¼” of soil but no more than ½”.
Planting your seeds in a row, even if the rows are close together, is easier to manage when it comes to thinning and weeding compared to broadcasting.
Once you have planted your seeds, water the bed very gently so you don’t wash them out, don’t let the soil dry out.
CARROTS IN CULTIVATION
Once carrot tops have grown 2″ tall, thin plants 1″ apart; after another two weeks, thin the plants back to 3 to 4 inches apart. This will allow ample room for the growing carrots and prevent them from becoming misshapen.
As the seedlings grow, cover the crowns (where the carrot meets the stem) with an organic mulch such as dry leaves or straw; The exposed tops will turn green and make the carrot taste bitter.
We prefer to use straw as mulch – leaves work well, but before they have time to compost they are likely to fly around the garden. If available, use barley straw; it is more absorbent than wheat straw and retains moisture longer.
Once soil temperatures exceed 70F, carrots become stunted and have a bland flavor. Covering the carrots with straw or other organic mulch will keep the soil temperature down when temperatures start to rise.
We have Personal Note:
We used a leaf spray this year that increased both the size and sweetness of our carrots called Organic Garden Miracle™. Increases plant sugar in plants, flowers and even trees in your garden. We are very impressed with this product.
IRRIGATION
The mulch you apply will help provide even moisture levels and minimize weeds. If your soil is dry, gradually water the bed over several days.
Avoid abundant and sudden watering; this could cause the roots to split.
COMPANION PLANTING / ROTATION
Good companions for carrots are tomatoes, beans, rosemary, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, peas, onions, lettuce, radishes, and bell peppers; all of these have shorter root systems and do not impede carrot formation.
Bad companions are celery, dill, and parsnips, as their growth is affected by proximity.
WHEN TO HARVEST
Patience is rewarded with sweeter, crunchier carrots; carrots get better in flavor the longer they have to ripen.
You can harvest your carrots as soon as they are big enough to eat or wait until they are fully ripe and harvest them all at once for winter storage. If you harvest the entire crop, do so before your first frost in the fall.
Moisten the soil the day before harvest if necessary to soften the soil, making carrot removal easier and less likely to break.
Using a digging stick (inserted a couple of inches from the root and rocking it back and forth) has worked very well for us when trying to remove deep rooted carrots; Using a shovel fork is not recommended as it is more likely to bruise or damage the roots, and a shovel may not reach far enough and cause the carrot to break at the tip.
We have Personal Note:
This year we put a 12-18in. Layer dry barley straw mulch over our half of our carrots to keep them from freezing to the ground, which ruins the carrots. We’ve had nights this year as low as -15F, and the carrots stay warm enough to harvest fresh carrots in late winter or very early spring!
STORAGE
When storing carrots for the winter, twist the tops of only ripe, straight, undamaged carrots and line a box, plastic bucket, or wooden box with newspaper. Layer the carrots (preferably not touching each other) with newspaper in between the layers (sand works well too, but is a bit trickier to handle).
Of course, store it in a basement or in a cool, dark place (such as under the house or in the garage). Ideal storage conditions are 32-40°F and 95% relative humidity.
We have Personal Note:
Our cellar contains a refrigerator and three freezers, so it doesn’t get too cold, so Barry dug out a 4-foot space. wide x 6 ft. long by 4.5ft. deep hole in the edge of the garden, he lined it with a plywood box and covered tubers like carrots and potatoes with dry barley straw, at least 12″ thick. He keeps the carrots nice and cool all winter long and they don’t freeze.
COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS
When carrot cultivation , its greatest threats are animals such as deer, rabbits, marmots and pocket gophers; protecting your garden with fences is your best option.
If carrot flies (rust flies) are a problem in your area, waiting to plant until after June 1 and harvesting before mid-September will prevent the first and second hatch of larvae.
Sage or black salsify is also known to repel carrot fly.
STORING SEEDS
Insects can cross-pollinate carrot flowers up to 200 feet (1000 feet is recommended to ensure pure seeds). For the backyard gardener new to saving seeds, grow a variety and make sure your neighbor isn’t growing carrots nearby.
Queen Ann’s Lace, a close wild relative, will also freely interbreed with carrots in your garden. If this common weed grows in your garden, keep it cut or pulled when carrot seeds are blooming.
To harvest the seeds, pick the seed heads when the second set of heads has matured; if you wait until the third or fourth umbel matures, the earlier seeds will “break” (break loose and fall to the ground).
To collect the most seeds, the plants can be bagged with spun polyester fabric (also known as Reemay) to catch all the mature seeds as they break.
