When the first ships arrived at Plymouth, most shellfish were not considered fit for human consumption, due in large part to their resemblance to an insect as it crawled along the ocean floor. Most of the early passengers during the 1600s were from England and other UK countries and were charged with eating beef, lamb and poultry. What they consumed from the ocean was generally fish, in the form of cod, haddock, and sole. The servants and domestic animals were fed plenty of lobster (there must have been many happy cats). Native Americans used it as a fertilizer. Imagine thousands of these spiny creatures washed up on the shores of the Cape, where anyone could fill a bucket for free. (Are you drooling yet?)
Although canneries began to appear along the East Coast two centuries later, lobster was not a desirable item on the dinner menu, but it was considered a cheap and nutritious protein for the poor and prisoners, just as than canned tuna on the west coast. . He can be sure that aficionado Thomas Jefferson never allowed the lowly lobster to obscure his kitchen door. Keep in mind that Americans were still clinging to their native British diet, which was largely based on meat. Shellfish were foreign to them and not widely eaten in any form.
Slowly, lobster became more accepted, especially with train travel during the 19th century, when cross-country passengers were unfamiliar with the succulent white meat and could be fed for pennies in dining cars. And as wealthy tourists flocked to Cape Code each summer, lobster was discovered and adopted, creating a surge in popularity and price.
During the 1920s, lobster prices really began to skyrocket, only to plummet during the Great Depression when few could afford it. Because there was no shortage, lobster was not rationed during World War II, and thus became a delicacy among the very wealthy. Soon after, top restaurants included it on their menus and cookbooks praised its tasty possibilities. By the 1950s, lobster had firmly established itself as a luxury food, just below caviar, and prices responded accordingly. There are many different species of lobster, from the prized Maine lobster, which commands the highest prices, to Mexico’s smallest lobster called the prawn. Americans value the highly prized Butter Stretched Maine lobster tail above all else.
Currently, the business is booming. Last year, New England fishermen landed more than 130 million pounds, totaling approximately $534 million. (Think of the butter required.) And those are just US figures. Our Canadian neighbors to the north also enjoy a thriving lobster business, with much of their bounty exported to Asia. Considered more desirable than Canadian cousins, current prices for the Maine variety range from $9 to $11 per pound wholesale. The langostino lobster, which is common in the Southwest and in Mexico, is not really a lobster but another species of crab. It’s sold at some fast food restaurants, featured in concession stands and restaurants south of the border, and costs considerably less than American lobster.
So there you have it. A true rags to riches saga. Lobster Thermidor, Lobster Mac and Cheese, Lobster Rolls, Lobster Salad, New England Baked Clams, Bisque and just plain outrageously delicious Maine Lobster. Shame on anyone with a shellfish allergy, because lobster is at the top of the flavor scale, and lobster fans pay a high price for their favorite food. Clearly, there is no end in sight.
